Saturday, December 5, 2015

2015-12-05-Mahipatgad Sumargad Rasalgad Trek

An amazing 4 day long traverse from Mahipatgad to Rasalgad via Sumargad in the Khed region of the Sayhadri’s with Yogesh. I met Yogesh via his insightful comments on some of my earlier trek photos on Picasa. Finally after some discussion on watsapp and phone calls the route and date was fixed in early Dec (5 to 8 Dec 2015) for the trek.

We decided to start the trek from Wadi Jetapur and then go to Mahipatgad via Wadi Beldar. Next we would go Sumargad and then finally to Rasalgad. I would recommend this sequence (and not the other way round starting from Rasalgad) to anyone who plans to do this traverse along with Sumargad.

The photo links and detailed write-up given below.

Photo Links:



Day 1: Mumbai to Khed Drive – ST Bus to Wadi Jetapur – Trek to Wadi Beldar.
à 4 ½  hours from Wadi Jetapur to Wadi Beldar (1:30 PM to 6:00 PM)

We started our drive from Mumbai on early Sat morning at 5:30 AM after picking up Yogesh form Kalwa station. We reached Khed at 10:30 AM and met up with Shekhar, our contact in Khed. He guided us to a place where we could park our car safely for 4 days. Had some amazing puri bhaaji at a restaurant opposite the Khed ST bus stand. After this it was time to bid goodbye to Shekhar (Thanks to him for helping us out in parking). We waited in the ST stand in hot and humid (not so comfortable) condition till 12:30 PM. The ST bus finally arrived and it was a comfortable 45 mins drive to Wadi Jetapur.

We started our trek in hot and humid weather at 1:30 PM. I was having a nice momentum till 20 mins and then suddenly started feeling giddy, maybe due to tiredness or the heat. I rested by a well for some time and had water and Electrals. After around 30 mins rest I felt better and we started again. Fortunately the trail was easy and without any exposure since even while walking I was feeling unstable due to giddiness (as if I was drunk J ). After ½ hour of walking I was perfectly alright again since we gained altitude and cool breeze started blowing. The trail to Wadi Beldar is easy, we just need to keep following the power line which goes all the way to Wadi Beldar. Do not take the road which is under construction since it doesn’t reach Wadi Beldar but goes in some other direction.

Finally after 3 ½ hours we reached the top part of the ridge from where we could see Wadi Beldar and rested there for 20 mins enjoying the cool breeze and mellow sunlight at 5:30 PM. We reached the village at 6:00 PM and planned to spend the night at Sitaram’s house. It was nice to just sit outside the house, doing nothing – just chatting away with Yogesh and the simple villagers and enjoying the amazing views all around.  We had amazing dinner of Cabbage sabzi, Bhakri, Rice, Gravy, Papad made by Jijabai couple of houses away. The dark night was spent doing star gazing for an hour outside Sitaram’s house, after which we retired for the night. We had planned to sleep outside but then the villagers mentioned that Leopards frequent the area so we decided we are better off inside Sitaram’s house.


Day 2: Trek from Wadi Beldar to Mahipatgad top – explore the fort for full day.
à 45 mins from Wadi Beldar to Mahipatgad temple.

Next morning after breakfast of noodles we along with Sitaram started our trek to Mahipatgad. Once we reached the top we saw the Shivganga Buruj and Darwaza. After that we went to the trail towards the ruined Horse stables and Maruti Temple a little further ahead (southern part of Mahipatgad) before heading towards the main Shiva temple where we would be spending the night after exploring the whole fort. We kept our bags at the temple before heading out again for exploration. Mahipatgad fort is a huge one with 120 acres of jungles on top. Finding the route to these ruins is difficult so we had Sitaram with us. It’s a treat to spend the whole day on top exploring the old ruins, temples and entrances amidst thick jungles.

After some rest and getting fresh at the Shiva temple (there is a well besides the temple and nice forest cover all around) we started again for exploration towards Kotwal Darwaza and an old temple of Maruti. The route goes through thick jungles in the centre of the fort towards the northern end from where we can see Kotwal village from the crest line along with Pratapgad fort. From the view point we could also see the Kotwal Buruj jutting out of the thick jungle canopy as well as the thickly forested col connecting to the other arm of Mahipatgad where the Pushati Darwaza is located.  Next in line was the Yashwant Buruj located in the South eastern part of the fort. The trail further descends to the Vadgaon village. We spotted Leopard Poop on this route.
Sitaram now left us at the temple promising to take us to Raya’s house next morning. Raya is a Dhangar in that area and very knowledgeable about the Mahipat Sumar Rasalgad area. We already had spoken to Raya the previous day and he had agreed to take us to Sumargad and guide us halfway till Rasalgad.

Now we were on our own and relaxed at the Shiva temple for around 1 ½ hours. Yogesh treated himself with a nice bath from the cool well water. At 4:30 PM we left the temple to reach a clearing on top of the hill besides the Shiva temple (possibly the highest point on Mahipatgad).  We were unsuccessful in reaching the top  due to complicated terrain and thick jungles but never the less found a  very good view point which gave us a birds eye view of the thick jungles on Mahipatgad as well as Sumargad popping out of the south direction – view to die for J. We also tried going towards the arm of Mahipatgad where the Pushati Darwaza is but had to turn back since it was getting dark.

Once back at the Shiva temple it was Soup and dinner time. It became extremely cold post sunset. Did some star gazing post dinner and retired for the day.

Day 3: Trek from Mahipatgad top to Wadi Beldar and further to Sumargad and Rasalgad.

Timings à
35 mins  from Mahipatgad Temple to Wadi Beldar (7:15 AM to 7:50 AM)
40 mins from Wadi Beldar to Raya Dhangar’s House (8:00 AM to 8:40 AM)
30 mins from Raya’s House to Guir Khind top (9:15 AM to 9:45 AM)
1 hour 5 mins from Guir Khind to Sumargad top (9:45 AM to 10:50 AM)
50 mins exploring Sumargad (10:50 AM to 11:40 AM)
1 hour 5 mins from Sumargad top to Guir Khind (11:40 AM to 12:45 PM)
5 hours from Guir Khind to Rasalgad (lost for 30 mins) (1:00 PM to 6:00 PM)
à Total time from Mahipatgad to Sumargad to Rasalgad: 10 Hours approx

This was supposed to be a long day for us so we got up pre dawn, had breakfast of Poha and started for Wadi Beldar at first hint of daylight. We reached the village in 35 mins. After some rest of 10 mins at Sitaram’s house we started towards Raya Dhangar’s hut on a clearing between Mahipat and Sumargad. Within 40 mins we reached Raya’s hut. In between we got some amazing panoramic views of the Mahipatgad fort.

We relaxed for some time outside Raya’s hut while he was doing his work. It was a privilege to have fresh curds at Raya’s place. Finally Sitaram bade us goodbye and we started off with Raya towards Sumargad at 9:15 AM. The route was thickly forested with an occasional opening from where we got nice views of Mahipatgad, and very pleasant to trek in.

Within some time the uphill climb for Guir Khind col started. We left our bags at the top of  the forested col and started towards Sumargad. This would be the crux of the whole trek. The trail to Sumargad is rarely used since it is not easy going from here. After an initial steep scree climb we need to traverse the hillock before we reach a ridge connecting Sumargad.

After the ridge we need to be very careful while going to Sumargad top. The route from here starts with an exposed traverse keeping Sumargad massif to the right. Thankfully there is solid rock and no scree here. After the traverse we need to do rock climbing for around 50 feet before we reach the top. There is a wire and 2 ladders placed by the villagers to aid the climb but still you need to be very careful since the ladders are just placed and not bound by cement or anything and the wire is plastic bound which hardly gives any friction when you hold it for support. It is advisable to carry a rope just in case.

We spent around 50 mins resting and exploring Sumargad top. There are 2 huge water tanks and a small one. There is also a small temple in ruins besides the Water tanks and a good Shiva temple in a cave nearby. 10 mins further we reached the actual top of the fort getting amazing views of the mountains around, specially the full panorama of Mahipatgad. It was time to descend carefully and we reached the col again within 1 hour where we had kept our bags.

After some rest at the col we start for Rasalgad at 1 PM. Again most part of the trek was in shade. Once out in the opening and other side of Sumargad we got very nice views of Sumargad. Raya showed us the alternate route up Sumargad (but it is more risky and lot of scree). At this point there is also a ruined Waghoba Devi temple nearby. Rest of the trek to Rasalgad from this point is in the open with not much shade. The trail hereon zigzags around the various hillocks, sometimes keeping the mountain side to the right and sometimes to the left with nice views of Makrandgad, Parvat and Chakdev. A guide is an absolute must till you actually see Rasalgad unless you have done the trail before. Even at this point its best to listen to the guides instructions carefully. After a complicated descent through slippery dry grass down a hillock to a plateau (getting lost for 20 mins) we finally were near Rasalgad. It was nice to walk in the mild yellow sunlight at around 5:30 PM and nearing the end of a long and successful traverse. All the pain and trouble vanishes in a jiffy.

We reached Rasalgad top at 6 PM almost 10 hours after we started. The entrances to Rasalgad top are pretty much intact and a treat to view. The best part is the huge Deepmaal besides the Zolai Devi temple and the amazing views of Pratapgad, Makrandgad, Parvat and Chakdev. Once on Rasalgad top we put our bags in the Zolai Devi temple and rested outside the temple enjoying the amazing sunset unfolding in front of us.

Now the trek cant end uneventfully isn’t it?  So here comes a call from Shekhar (our contact from Khed) at around 7:30 PM that my car’s security alarm has been buzzing since last 2 days troubling the people staying / working around the area and also discharging my car battery. They were going to log a police complaint but then Shekhar said that we are his friends. At this time there was no transport to Khed from the base village Nimani so we told him that we would take the first ST bus from Nimani and reach Khed tomorrow morning ASAP.

We were dead tired now so post the ruckus of my car security alarm we started with soup, dinner and went to sleep.

Day 4: Trek from Rasalgad to Nimani and further to Gawliwadi – Rick to Khed and Drive to Mumbai.
We got up early pre dawn and after getting fresh started walking towards Nimani in hopes of getting the first ST bus to Khed at 6:45 AM. But fate had other plans for us. We missed the bus by 5 mins so we decided to keep walking till we find an alternative mode of transport. Luckily after an hour of walking we reached Gawliwadi where a rickshaw wala was staying and he was going to Khed.

One point to note is the forest cover in the area and villages around Rasalgad. It was still very much intact and it was a pleasure walking in such surroundings in the cold early morning chill.

We reached Khed at around 9 AM and got down besides the car. We were joking that the villagers would be standing with sticks in their hands ready to beat us up J.  I opened the car with my keys but still the alarm kept on ringing. Finally I opened the bonnet and unplugged the bloody security device (with no plans of using it again). People around realized that the culprits have arrived and everyone started telling us about the trouble they had to put up with listening to the alarm for 2 whole days. I fully agree with them and thank them that no one damaged the car in spite of all the trouble they had to go through except one deflated rear tyre. I had a foot-pump so inflating the tyre was not a big deal.

A tempo driver nearby and Yogesh helped pushing the car and in first try the car started. We first escaped from this area and went to the highway for breakfast before anyone tries to get their hands on us J.  Post a nice south Indian breakfast it was a nice drive back home and happy memories of an outstanding trek to cherish. Thanks to Yogesh for being an exceptionally nice trekking companion. Hope to do many more treks with you.

Saturday, November 28, 2015

2015-11-28-Kamalgad Trek with Family

A nice weekend camping and trekking to Kamalgad in Wai region with family. See photo links below and a brief summary as well.

https://picasaweb.google.com/zenosh/20151128KamalgadTrekWithMomYohaanAndNovaManasi

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10153675380966181&type=1&l=a86c78ee16

One of the best outdoors I had with my family. Early morning drive to Tupewadi from Pune, enroute light breakfast and a small break by the Dhom lake.

We started the trek at 12 PM and after numerous breaks in the shade for snacks, juice, lassi  we reached the Gorakshnath temple by 3:00 PM. Kudos to my mom and son for completing this uphill trek with smile on their faces.

After the Temple - the trek is in thick forest till the campsite clearing below Kamalgad where 1 shepherd hut is also there with some wheat farms. After filling water from the natural water spring nearby we reached the campsite and started pitching the tents and setting up the camp for the night. Mom was relaxing and enjoying the views and Yohaan was busy helping setting up the tent, sleeping bag, camp fire  etc and Nova Manasi setting up the kitchen. Ever since we came at the campsite a black dog came to us and became immmediate friends. He was very sweet and playful, I am yet to find a more friendlier dog then him. We named him Blakie:)

Evening tea and biscuits followed by a walk by the campsite and then soup, dinner, camp fire and star gazing. What can be a better way to spend an amazing evening at the campsite.

Next morning after tea and breakfast of Poha and Maggie Noodles we went for a short trek to the Kamalgad fort. The climb up the final chimney was adventerous specially for my mom and kid and they really liked it. I and Yohaan also went in the 40 feet deep well on top - not sure of the exact reason for building it - maybe a prison or mine or well. The views of the surrounding forests from Kamalgad top, the clearing in the forest with our campsite, shepherd hut, wheat farms and the Koleshwar plateau was well worth the effort. After spending some time on the fort it was time to descend back to the village. It was a quick downhill trek to the car and back to Pune.

A weekend well spent in the outdoors with family.

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

2015-09-15 - Spiti Valley - Mount Kanamo, Dhankar Lake, Mudh - Pin Valley, Chandratal

Spiti Roaming’s Sep - Oct 2015

This trip was special to me. It was after a long frustrating break of 10 months that I was going to the high mountains again due to a severe back injury in lower spine due to overuse. Thanks to my physiotherapist, family and friends I was able to think about taking this trip and get confidence that not all is over yet. The plan began with me and my friend Kunal planning to summit Mount Kanamo (5975 mts) above Kibber in Spiti Valley. Since I was on a sabbatical I planned some more time in the mountains (15 Sept to 8 Oct 2015)  before and after the climb to see some remaining areas in Spiti valley like Pin Valley and Chandratal Lake and in general take it easy and keep more rest days for my back.

Below is a nice write-up of my experiences on the trip split into smaller parts with each having its own summary and photo links. Hope you all enjoy going through. Cheers!

Picasa contains mostly all images and Facebook might contain only the important ones at times.


Rest in Manali, Beas Kund Trek and Drive to Kaza.

Had to spend couple of days in Manali before Kunal comes here and we go to Kaza / Kibber for climbing Mount Kanamo (5975 mts). I was taking it a bit easy this time to see how my back takes the rigours of the mountain journey after prolonged recovery from overuse injury. Spent a day relaxing in the sun at RideInn at Shenag village - 5 km away from Manali and very peaceful with Amazing 360 degree view of the surrounding mountains including the road high above towards Rohtang Pass.

Then decided to go to a small 3 day trek to Beas Kund by taking a local guide. Unfortunately the guide I got (Amit Negi) was a totally useless fellow and always seemed to be high on something and sick as well. Fortunately the porter accompanying me was a real good fellow and accompanied me to the Beas Kund trek from Dhundi. Although we lost our way and instead reached Beas Kund Glacier view point atop a ridge - the views from there were  mind blowing and I did not really mind this minor goof up. We got amazingly clear weather and nice views of the Hanuman Tibbba Massif and the surrounding peaks and glaciers with nice greenery around.

A nice stay at Himalyan Home stay at Vashisht with my friend Huzefa post the trek made me fresh again for the long journey from Manali to Kaza the next day once Kunal would arrive. Its just 200 km but takes 10 hours due to very bad back breaking roads or boulder track I must say. It was a full rain day drive from Manali to Kaza the next day in Xylo with Kunal and our trusted driver Raju. The worst weather I have ever seen in Spiti.




Kaza to Kibber and Acclimatization Hike above Kibber.

We stayed at Norling Guest house in Kibber. Next day an acclimatization hike above Kibber to 4600 mts in bad rainy weather. This was in prep for our trek to Mount Kanamo summit - 5975 mts in following days. We went to the top of the ridge visible from Kibber and did a bit of exploration around the high altitude plateau there and also found an amazing view point of the deep gorge separating Kibber and Chicham villages. After coming back we spent time at the Kibber village arranging for the guide to mount Kanamo which landed us in a dharam sankat :) since we had also talked to the other guide also, who was away with the army folks for Kanamo and we were not sure when he would return. So we decided to stick to the guide who was in Kibber which did not go well with the other guide.



Highlight of the trip to Summit Mount Kanamo 5975 mts – above Kibber.

After our short acclimatization hike above Kibber in bad weather we hunted for a guide who can take us to Kanamo. We did find a very reliable person named Tansen Lamaji who stays behind the Norling Guest House.

The guide Tansen Lamaji was very prompt in arranging the stuff for us that very evening - porter, mules, kitchen stuff and tent. The plan was to wait out the bad weather and start at the very first hint of weather clearing. This meant starting as early as next day morning by 8 AM. And weather gods were indeed pleased with us - a day of rain and snow fall and fog and the very next morning it was clear blue sky, in fact at night itself the sky was crystal clear without any cloud.

A quick start next morning at 9:00 AM with our guide Tansen Lamaji, support staff Tansen Dorjee and 2 mules we made good progress walking towards our base camp for the night which is at 4800 mts and around 4 hours from Kibber. It was a nice trek to the base camp with moderately snowed out trail and surroundings - giving us a nice opportunity to view some of the most amazing landscapes after fresh snowfall. The base camp was in a side valley. We enjoyed our afternoon and evening meals there and also the amazing views around. Of course it goes without saying that it was bone chilling cold there and the night was much worse. I could just not sleep at night due to the extreme cold. I guess altitude was less of a problem for me that night. With just 2 hours of sleep we started for the summit push at 6:10 AM. Initial 3 hours was moderately uphill giving us some chance to catch our breadth and also enjoy the nice views all around. Next 3 1/2 hours was the killer incline trail up the summit dome where we had to progress very slowly due to less oxygen and constant incline of about 50 degrees. Unfortunately Kunal could not summit with just 300 mts of vertical ascent remaining but he was not feeling well at all and at this altitude it makes sense to go back in such case. I finally sumitted at 12:30 PM along with Tansen Lamaji and rushed back down to the base camp to loose altitude soon since I was also not feeling well. I could not have asked for more and felt really nice after the successful summit attempt. We directly pushed for Kibber and stayed at Tashi Zom guest house.




Kibber COP (Change of plans) and Visit to Dhankar Lake with VU.

After the previous 12 hour Kanamo summit trek day I wanted to relax a day at Kibber. But as usual early morning lot of plan changes and a phone call to my friend Vaibhav who was in Kaza - I finally decided to meet him at Kaza and go with him for a short drive to Mudh in Pin valley. So in a hurry I packed my stuff and took the 8 AM bus to Kaza along with Kunal. It was nice to meet up with him but again change of plans since the road to Mudh was closed for maintenance till 3 PM so we instead decided to drive to Dhankar and trek to Dhankar Lake which is around 2 hours from the monastery. We enjoyed the dramatic barren landscapes around Dhankar and the precariously located old monastery on a hill top.

After a nice heavy breakfast at the Restaurant behind the New Dhankar Monastery we started our trek to Dhankar Lake. There was a very nice hut on the hill top and it seemed that the route to the lake would be from there so like some super heroes we took shortcuts to the hut and we see that there is no route going further. After a lot of scrambling and dicey traverse on the bad scree of Spiti mountains we met the main trail to the lake.

The lake was surrounded on all sides by mountains and nice high altitude vegetation. We rested for a while near the Chorten by the lake, took a nice nap and took a relaxing walk around the lake before starting the quick downhill trek via the normal route. Night well spent at Sakya Abode for dinner with Vaibhav and family and Kunal.




Kaza to Mudh - Buchan Ritual at Mudh

A nice relaxing day at Kaza and an uneventful bus ride to Mudh village admist bad weather. By chance met up with few folks from Kaza in Mudh too which proves that you never really travel solo. Next day was a very clear day and with no plan I was taking it easy by taking walks around the small village and enjoying the views from the Tara Guest House terrace along with Tea and breakfast. Then to my surprise there was a Buchan ritual exhibition in the village specially organized for the foreign trekkers and we also were able to witness it. The ritual started with fast funny talks from two men in local language and then some prayers midway, sword skills display and finally the huge piece of wood being put on the mans stomach and broken by dropping a stone on it. The end was with a nice typical Tibetan dance where all were encouraged to join. Could not understand the meaning of it all but it was a real nice experience to sit through this in the warm sun and clear Himalayan day. Again surprise - Vaibhav, Prachi and their son Arjun also came to Mudh and witnessed the ritual. Afternoon was just spent lazing around and a late evening walk on the Bhabha Pass road - a day well spent doing total vishram:). Evening was fun filled and interesting with some overland bikers for company and sharing travel tales and experiences from their travels from UK to India via Central Asia and Pakistan.




Mudh - Bhabha Pass Trail

Another clear day at Mudh and me and my recent friend Akash decided to walk on the road under construction to Bhabha Pass. I did enjoy the warm early morning sun and amazing views from Tara guest house terrace with a hot cup of tea. We started at around 9 AM after a nice breakfast. The overland bikers Eric, Chris, Frank and Patra were also going to come with us but they were running late and would catch-up with us later since they would be quicker on their bikes.

The further we moved ahead of Mudh the more mind blowing the landscapes became - with different colours on the mountains, amazing views of the snow clad peaks and the view of the Mudh village behind far away now. Eric, Frank, Petra and Chris caught up with us on their bikes and were kind enough to take me and Akash as pillion. I was behind Eric on his BMW 1200 GS and what a smooth ride on the difficult dirt track.

We stopped the bikes by the nala and started walking ahead enjoying the mind blowing mountain and valley views. We came up another big nala which was very difficult to cross even by foot and with my back condition I did not want to try and stunts. But Akash and Eric did cross by doing a commando style wire crossing and hanging by a slider respectively. Akash did fall in the water once while on his way back but lucky for him there was a big stone on which he rested and then again started to the river bank. He fell again but lucky he already had crossed over and did not fall in the ice cold water again. I am glad both made back safely.

We rested for a while and had snacks before starting our walk back. While on the bikes back to Mudh - Chris's tyre got punctured 2 km before Mudh. Lucky that the village was nearby so we did not have to mend the puncture on the road or tow the bike for long distance. A day well spent indeed with amazing company.




Kumzum La - Chandratal Trek

After Mudh - spent a relaxed day at Kaza and then started planning for Chandratal. My plan was to get down at KumzumLa top and trek to Chandratal from there. But that added additional coordination since I could not carry all my luggage so would need to tell someone to drop the extra bag at Batal and I would pick it up from there after 3 days. Luckily the plan worked out fine once I visited the taxi stand at Kaza. They were running a shared tempo traveller service from Kaza to Manali and agreed with my plan and said that the driver would drop the bag at Batal. I booked 2 tempo traveller seats to Manali. First one on 1st Oct where I would get down at Kumzum Top and the next at 4th Oct where I would take the tempo traveller from Batal to Manali. The tempo traveller picked me up from Sakya Abode, Kaza at 6:30 AM. A nice picturesque drive to Losar and we stopped for breakfast. After some delay due to tyre puncture before Kumzum I was dropped off at Kumzum La top at 10:30 AM. I started the trek at 11:00 AM, bit apprehensive if I could find the route all alone.

I anyways enjoy the wilderness and the remoteness which the great Spitian mountains have to offer specially when you are solo. The track initially climbed higher than KumzumLa and reaches another top where flags are placed. This is the only place where you can possibly loose your way since there is no clear route ahead. I saw a prominent trail on the opposite hillock and tried my luck. It was correct and from here it was some more ups and downs through some of the most breath taking mountain scenery. Could spot Batal and the jeep road to Chandratal, also the Samudra Tapu Glacier and Chandra River - the last view sticking with me though next 2 days during my exploration in the area. The shepherd shelters were a boon tempting me to take some nice breaks - and I did a long one with a nap and eating some parathas packed during breakfast at Losar. At one point I could see the Campsite area before Chandratal and I was tempted to directly go to the campsite cutting short from a Nala but I thought to complete the route to Chandratal and walk back to the campsite which did add 2 extra hours but was worth the effort.

Finally the first view of Chandratal in sight and in next 1 hour I did reach the lake completely mesmerised by its clear blue waters and the mountain views around. Sat there for around 1/2 hour before starting the boring road walk towards the campsite. I was lucky to find place at Tenzing campsite since sometimes too many tourists come here. Making some good friends at the extremely cold evening by the campfire sharing travels tales - it was a night to remember.




Chandratal Exploration - trail from Campsite

Amazing clear weather spell - got up early morning to clear blue skies, though it was extremely cold and uncomfortable till 8 AM. Had a nice breakfast and decided to go to Chandratal from the trail rather than the road. It was a nice 1 hour walk (expected time) with initial uphill and then through some nice grassy meadows before you drop down for the lake again. Of course who wanted to do this in 1 hour :). I took lot of breaks just enjoying the silence and the vastness of the mountain scenery and of course snacks of dry fruits and chocolates. Also took detour towards the left side crest line of the mountains to see the amazing view of Chandra River and Samudra Tapu Glacier and the amazingly vast river bed of glacial moraine (not sure). Of course due to this I reached the lake after 2 1/2 hours at 12:30 PM.

Did a nice circle of the lake and got some amazing landscape photos but since I was late the wind started to pick up and I missed the window for clear mirror reflection shots in the lake. Again in the evening it became extremely cold, but with Old Monk to my rescue and the amazing company at the campfire - who cares :).




Chandratal Exploration - Chandratal Mirror Image and Opposite side of Lake

I had one more spare day at Chandratal and remembered a comment from someone during a conversation at the camp fire on the previous night. "Go early to the lake to get mirror reflection since there is no wind to disturb the water". I got up and without having breakfast started for Chandratal Lake at 8 AM. Any time before this would have been too uncomfortable due to the extreme cold. I was going real fast today so that I can reach the lake early and anyways I had already been nice and slow on this trail the previous day. I found 2 groups who had lost their way to Chandratal and helped them on the correct route. One group was too tired to go ahead but the other group were happy to follow me. Alternate profession Isn’t it J.

I reached the lake soon enough and what a sight to behold. No wind and the water was absolutely still like a mirror. I started walking around the lake taking pictures. Once I was a bit away from the usual tourist point I just sat at one place trying to soak in the beautiful sight I had in front of me. No words can describe it. Now things can’t just go on this ideally isn’t it? Before I could reach the opposite end of the lake there was a herd of Yaks grazing on the meadows besides the lake. Yaks can be extremely unpredictable and violent at times. I had to be very careful while trying to cross the herd. Just sat there and walked around them for 15 mins to judge if they are getting hyper due to my presence, but they seemed to be Ok with it. That’s when I slowly started walking from a clearing past the herd and I was on the other side without a scratch. Of course I got some of the best images of the lake with the Yaks grazing by the shore.

Then started a long walk across the green pasture on the opposite side of the lake to explore the mountain crest line on the side which would give me amazing views of the Chandra River emerging from the high mountains and meandering to Batal and the big Samudra Tapu Glacier and the huge river bed / moraine below it extending all the way to Chandra River. Moving along the crest line was fun and an alternative route back to the campsite. Before going to the campsite I again took a longish rest at a shepherd shelter. I reached the campsite at 12:30 PM extremely hungry since I did not have any breakfast.

But fate had other plans for me. Wait for next part J




Chandratal to Batal and vishram / Hot springs at Vashisht

After the nice trek around opposite side of Chandratal I was back at the campsite hungry since I did not have breakfast in the morning. I told Tenzing to give me something to eat. He mentioned that he is going to Batal and can drop me there if I can be ready in 15 mins and can always have good food once I am at Chandra Dhaba at Batal. That was an offer difficult to let go by. I would avoid the 4 hour long and boring road walk to Batal. So that’s when my super fast drive to Batal started and I was there at Batal in 1/2 hour flat in Tenzing’s jeep. He was really fast and I had to hold on to whatever I could get my hands on so that my back is not jerked.

The Chandra Dhaba at Batal is owned by Tenzing’s father. His Dad and mom have been running this Dhaba since many years and have helped countless stranded tourists with food and shelter when the weather traps them here due to heavy snow fall or bad weather, and that is without any expectation of money. They have also got an award for that. I was lucky to reach there by 1:00 PM and had an opportunity to spend time till next day 10 AM with Dorjee uncle and soak in the nice and cosy ambience of Chandra Dhaba. Usually Batal is just a night halt for travellers on the difficult road from Manali to Kaza.

In one of the conversations with Dorjee uncle I mentioned that there is no clear sign of the Dhaba and he mentioned he doesn’t know how to write. I asked him if he has paint and a brush and I can do it for him. He was very happy and got a dark green paint which he had with him and a brush. I put my long lost painting skills to use and started. I was apprehensive initially since I was not sure if I would be able to do a reasonable good job in this extreme cold weather. But I guess I did it well. See photos :) Of course there was a drunken BRO worker who added a lot more masala to my boring writing :).

Most of my spare time was spent eating amazing food (omlet, paratha, maggie, chips), drinking tea and old monk to beat away the cold. Also met up with a biker from Delhi - Anshul, who was making a documentary on Spiti.

Next morning I was waiting for my Shared Temp traveller which I had booked for Manali. What a coincidence that I kept bumping into people I met during the trip - which again proves that you never really travel solo. They were there in the tempo traveller :). It arrived at around 11 AM. A long and bumpy drive to Manali after a sort halt at Chhatru for lunch.

At Vashisht I was lucky to have a nice 3 day relaxed stay at the amazing Himalayan Home stay run by my friends Huzefa, Rashmi and Honey Sharma. Also had a nice experience of going to the hot springs for 2 days early morning. Met up with my good friend Eric from Shenag village to have dinner with his family - wife and 2 cute kids Jason and Joshua. In general spent some relaxed time in Vashisht doing nothing - just soaking in the amazing village atmosphere, countless apples, constant murmur of the river flowing and cool crisp clear climate - much more comfortable than the extreme Oct cold of Spiti. Ended the stay there with a short trek to Jogini Falls and the Vashisht Monastery.

The trip ends with a smooth taxi drive to Chandigarh Airport with a pleasant Himachali driver and it couldn’t be better than this.




Day wise Itinerary on request of friends.

Day 01 – 15 Sept – MUM – CHD Flight and Taxi drive to Manali
Day 02 – 16 Sept – Rest at Manali (RideInn – Thanks to Godwin and Snehal)
Day 03 – 17 Sept – Beas Kund Trek – Drive to Solang and trek to Dhundi
Day 04 – 18 Sept – Beas Kund Trek – Trek to Beas Kund and back to Dhundi
Day 05 – 19 Sept – Beas Kund Trek – Trek to Solang and Drive to Vashisht
Day 06 – 20 Sept – Drive to Kaza
Day 07 – 21 Sept – Rest at Kaza and Bus ride to Kibber
Day 08 – 22 Sept – Kibber Acclimatization Hike
Day 09 – 23 Sept – Kibber – Mt Kanamo Base camp
Day 10 – 24 Sept – Mt Kanamo summit and back to Kibber
Day 11 – 25 Sept – Kibber to Kaza Bus ride and Dhankar Lake with VU
Day 12 – 26 Sept – Kaza Rest
Day 13 – 27 Sept – Kaza Rest and Bus ride to Mudh
Day 14 – 28 Sept – Mudh rest and Buchan ritual
Day 15 – 29 Sept – Mudh – Bhabha Pass trail
Day 16 – 30 Sept – Mudh to Kaza Bus ride and Kaza Rest
Day 17 – 01 Oct   – Kaza to Kumzum La top bus ride and Trek to Chandratal
Day 18 – 02 Oct   – Chandratal Exploration
Day 19 – 03 Oct   – Chandratal Opposite end Exploration and Jeep ride to Batal
Day 20 – 04 Oct   – Batal to Vashisht tempo traveller drive
Day 21 – 05 Oct   – Vashisht rest
Day 22 – 06 Oct   – Vashisht rest and Hot Springs
Day 23 – 07 Oct   – Vashisht rest, Hot Springs and trek to Jogini Falls, Vashisht Monastery
Day 24 – 08 Oct   – Vashisht to Chandigarh Taxi drive and Flight to Mumbai